A quick post about my Sapporo coats! I really loved the pattern as soon as I saw it popping up on Instagram and bought it soon afterwards. It is an oversized cocoon shaped coat with slanted pockets by Papercut patterns and is available as a PDF or paper pattern. I made a ‘coatigan’ to begin with, using a diamond pattern textured wool fabric from my stash. I bought this fabric a couple of years ago on eBay, with the intention of making a coat but realised it was quite soft and prone to pilling which put me off using it. I almost didn’t finish making it but I was persuaded by the good people of Instagram! It worked really well as an unlined soft jacket . I overlocked all the seams which made it very quick, and hand stitched the hems for a neat finish.
I made the smallest size and reduced the length by about 2-3 inches but didn’t make any other major modifications. As predicted, it has bobbled quite a lot but is still wearable and I’m glad I finished it.
Next I was ready to tackle the real thing. I used a teal and black wool boucle from Fabworks. It has a subtle grid pattern and is thick and warm. I made the smallest size again, and modified the shell by reducing about an inch at the dropped shoulder seam and a similar amount from the whole sleeve seam and the side seam. I did not reduce the length this time.
I really liked the lining fabric pattern which is a pretty lilac and blue flower print on a black background from Stone Fabrics. Stone Fabrics is in Devon but they have an excellent mail order service where you can telephone your order through to the shop and pay for it by card.
I found inserting the lining a bit tricky, partly because I had modified the pattern and also because I had never bagged a lining before. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube which helped me to understand the process and it worked out eventually!
I wore it for our anniversary day out and it was really comfortable and warm. The fabric does tend to catch on things, it’s a bit like Velcro!
I really enjoyed making this coat and it has given me more confidence to try other coat and jacket patterns. I’d love to make a bright wool coat for next year and have spied some great patterns such as the Rumana coat by By Hand London and the Sew Over It Cocoon coat (available with Lisa Comfort magazine). Do you have any coat patterns you would recommend?
I bought the Kyoto Tee pattern by Papercute Patterns a while ago and have made two of them so far. I really liked the ruffle on the sleeve which is very on trend at the moment. I now get most of my patterns printed at A0 size at Netprinter so I was able to cut out the pieces quickly and get started. There are only a few pieces – front, back, sleeve, ruffle and hem and sleeve bands.
I made my first one in a teal boiled wool jersey from Fabworks. It didn’t have a great deal of stretch but as the fit is quite loose it worked well. The fabric was easy to sew with and doesn’t fray as it is boiled wool.
I made the small size, it was quite long so I shortened it by about two inches. I had planned to leave off the hem band but I ended up cutting it a bit shorter than I wanted so I ended up using the hem band but making it narrower and longer so it didn’t pull in as much at the waist. I hemmed the sleeves without the band as well.
I made my second Kyoto in a mustard yellow jersey from Fabrics Galore which I bought at Great British Sewing Bee Live. It was another quick make, finished in a couple of easy evenings after work. I’ve been wearing this quite a lot as it is so comfortable as a layering piece. The fabric is great quality cotton/elastane blend and washes well.
I’ve seen some short sleeved tops and ones made without the ruffle as well so plan to give those versions a try as well. It’s a very versatile pattern!
I downloaded and printed the Named Esme cardigan pattern a few months ago to make with some beautiful Fabworks double faced wool. I actually ended up buying two lots of this fabric as I didn’t have enough the first time I tried to cut it out. The #cosycardichallenge on Instagram motivated me and I finally got round to making it last week. From cutting to finishing the last stitch it took me about four hours.
There are not many pattern pieces to stick together for the PDF version but you do have to trace off the sleeve and button band as they overlap the other pieces.
I modified the pattern a bit to suit me. The original length was almost down to my ankles so I reduced the length by about 8 inches. I also decided not to add the cuff or buttons as I liked the look without them.
As the wool is double faced, I could have used either side for the cuffs and neckband. I decided I preferred to keep it one colour and just use the contrast for the pocket. It breaks up the block colour and adds a bit of interest. This did lead to a bit of brain gymnastics as I had to work out which was the right and wrong side for attaching the pockets.
Next time I would also reduce the length in the top of the front bodice as well as the pockets are a little low for my liking and I definitely can’t reach to the bottom of them easily! They are lovely deep pockets though.
A word about the fabric – the above photo is a product shot from Fabworks mill. I met some friends at GBSB Live who said they never buy fabric online after disappointments, but I have found the sample service from Fabworks very good and the quality and value of their fabrics is amazing. I originally bought this fabric for £5 a metre during their Fabric of the Week offer but at £10 a metre it is still a bargain. I prewashed it on a wool setting on my machine and it came out perfect. It is also soft, non itchy and very sturdy with no sign of pilling. It was easy to sew and overlock as well. I have enough left to make a Finlayson sweater for my husband too, although I will use the navy side so we don’t end up twinning!
All in all, I’m really pleased with this project and I’m sure it will get lots of use. Despite being a fairly simple sew it has the ‘did you make that?’ factor! It’s so useful and the type of garment that would be £££ in the shops.
There’s been a bit of a blogging hiatus again! Ramadan was busy and then we had the usual end of term madness. You may have seen some of my makes over on Instagram but I will try and catch up here as I’ve made quite a few new things recently that I want to share.
This is the Rachel top by See Kate Sew. I really liked the shape of the sleeves and the exposed zip at the back.
Ruffled sleeves are a big trend this summer and they are everywhere at the moment! It was actually very easy to add the ruffle.
I added a pink exposed zip which pops against the dark blue Art Gallery print fabric. This is a cotton voile from the Katarina Roccella collection.
I wore it with some pink Biden Richmond trousers and an Inayah collection sleeveless crepe jacket. I also have quite a lot of aqua in my wardrobe so it coordinates well with other items. It is a little short for my preference and has a bit of a maternity look to it because of the gathers above the bust so I’m not sure I’ll make it again but I learned a lot doing this project and will use the skills again.
It’s been a little while since I made this dress but it has a springy palette so provided the weather improves, it should get some wear soon!
This dress is made entirely in Liberty Tana lawn. The main fabric is Tuesday Trees, which was designed by Lauren Child (the creator of Charlie and Lola). It’s a pretty print with a hint of colour, just enough to complement the patchwork panel.
The pattern is the Painted Portrait Dress by Anna Maria Horner. I purchased both the pattern and fabric quite a few years ago and it is wonderful to actually see them made up into something wearable finally.
I used a variety of prints to make up the panel, which was actually very easy to sew. I found it a bit tricky to attach the side panels to the main bodice and had to reduce a bit of the fullness to get it to fit in. The fitting is still fine, I made a size Small.
My only regret is not making the sleeves full length, as it would be much more practical for me in the summer. I even considered remaking the sleeves but didn’t want to unpick all my stitching and overlocking. This may be an option still if it annoys me enough! But overall I’m very happy with the style and fabric combination, it’s something that would catch my eye if I saw it in the shops and it is comfortable and light to wear (once the weather cheers up!)
A quick post about my daughter’s birthday dress! I’ve been making quicker than I can blog recently so I’m going to post a few projects with less waffle. This is made using the Fleur and Dot Peter Pan Collar dress pattern (it’s not quite finished in the above photo!).
I bought this gorgeous fabric as soon as it came out last year. It’s from the Lavish fabric range by Katarina Roccella. It also comes in a beautiful white and pink colourway. I made a small change to the finishing of the cuffs as I wasn’t happy with having the overlocked edge showing, so I turned the edges over twice for a neater edge instead.
I cut a size 5 and my daughter just turned 4. She is tall for her age so although it’s a little bit big now I’m happy she’ll get some decent wear out of it. The pattern was straightforward with only a few pieces to cut (bodice, collar, sleeves). The measurements were provided for the skirt. I was a bit unhappy about the very small age ranges provided for a not inexpensive pattern. This was a preschool pattern which came with sizes 4,5 and 6. Infant size and Youth are available separately. I don’t plan to repurchase the Youth size but will probably look for a similar pattern with a wider age range.
I finally bought a tool for adding the popper fasteners which is a huge improvement to hammering them in with the little plastic tool that’s provided. I did put the buttons in the wrong way round at first though! Luckily my husband was on hand to get them out but I don’t recommend doing this!
Altogether it was a fairly quick sew. I learned a few new skills and am less intimidated by press studs!
The Moneta Party’s started! I can share my lovely new dress with you all.I was in two minds whether to join in as I’m supposed to be keeping my pattern and fabric stash under control and I already have the Out and About Dress pattern which is very similar. However the Instagram posts (and amazing prizes) tempted me in. I already had the fabric which is an Observer knit by Art Gallery Fabrics.
I wore it to work this morning with this Great Plains waterfall jacket and it was really comfortable. I love the expression ‘Secret Pyjamas’, that’s exactly how it felt to wear! The weather was still a bit cold for my liking but it will be perfect in a couple of months for a dress like this.
I’m not very fond of having my picture taken so you’ll have to excuse the awkward poses!
I love the length of the dress, as I’m quite short (5’2″) it’s hard to find dresses the correct length and I spent most of my teenage years in clothes that dragged on the ground. I’m still lazy about hemming shop bought clothes but I make sure I hem my sewing to the correct length for me.
I made some modifications to the original pattern. I lengthened the sleeves and skirt to full length using the Out and About dress sleeve as a guide. I overestimated the length of the skirt and had to cut some off when I hemmed it.
I also gathered the skirt and sewed it to the bodice front and did the same with the back pieces before joining the sides. This is because I hate the feeling of elastic digging into my waist, and I didn’t have any clear elastic at home. I might try this technique if I make the dress again though.
I made a size small but graded the waist to a medium. I was happy with the fitting although the neckline is fairly wide. It does look beautiful and is a bit different to dresses I already have.
This was my first time using a twin needle and I was surprised to find it was actually quite easy! I was a bit sceptical about finishing the neckline without a facing but am really happy with the result.
I will probably make another one of these soon but will try a shorter length as the maxi length is hard to manage when sewing. Now I’m off to look at all the beautiful Monetas!